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How to build a bass guitar – Oil finishing the neck

This is a beginner-friendly way of oiling a neck. While there are several ways to do this, this particular method is suitable for anyone even if you have no prior experience.

Below: Box of rags (thick paper towels, same as blue shop towels), pair of medical grade gloves (meaning not kitchen gloves), tung oil (natural color), bass neck.

Note on neck: Sanding at this point since the neck was seen in the last article has been handed with 220, 320 and 400-grit (in that order) to prep the neck for tung oil finishing.

Below: Dipping rag into oil to apply first coat. Note: Hand rubbing is being used instead of spraying because no complicated equipment is required to do it.

Below: About half the neck has the first coat applied at this point.

Below: The first whole coat has been applied.

Below: Applying finish to the back of the headstock.

Below: Applying finish to the front of the headstock.

Below: Drying off the excess oil from the neck.

Below: Drying the back of the neck and heel area.

Below: Hanging the neck to dry completely (usually takes less than 1 hour).

Final note: The minimum amount of coats is usually 3 to 4, although you can apply as many as you like for the desired appearance.

7 thoughts on “How to build a bass guitar – Oil finishing the neck”

  1. It’s great to showcase a wipe-on finish, because it works and feels great, wears pretty well, and can be renewed. All without fancy equipment.

    But it takes knowledge, time and effort to accomplish anything great. Google “guitar neck oil finish” and prepare for a long read.

    Things that matter: thinners, dryers, co-polymerizing agents, temperature and humidity, rubbing *hard* with lint-free cloth, and perfecting each coat as if it were the final one…

    Also, careful with the fretboard if you don’t like cementing your frets on with ugly berms of hardened gunk!

    Reply
    • Hey Jeff, Thanks for the comment. Yes it would be beneficial to mention to anyone reading this that there is much information out there about perfecting an oil finish. If done correctly it can rival others guitar finishes in depth and gloss, And while the pursuit of a high-end looking finish coming from an oil like tung or true is both achievable and commendable. It is just not what I’m trying to accomplish here. For me the oil look is just a satin one. A few quick coats that completely wiped off with dry paper towels. It is a modest look I am going for, and I admit I actually like how easy it is. If I wanted a more robust finish, or wanted to spend that much time on it I think I would just spray with a hard finish instead. If the other guides on the net serve to explain how complex it can be then I guess this one is here to offer that it does not need to be, especially if it is your first time. We should all aspire to greatness in everything we do, but we do have to start somewhere.

      Reply
  2. Don’t forget proper disposal of the tung oil rags – if left balled up in the open air, oxidization can and will lead to combustion. Either spread them out flat to dry (preferably outside), or store them in a sealed metal container. (No oxygen = no fires).

    Reply
    • Thank you Scott! I can’t believe I forgot to mention that. Everybody read what Scott said twice! I put mine outside until they are totally dry before throwing them away. Never throw wet-oily rags in the trash

      Reply
  3. After reading through this whole tutorial (which is great, btw) I realized that there are numerous tools needed. I made a list but that took quite some time. I think it would be really helpful to include a list of tools and materials needed in the entire building process.

    Reply
  4. One thing to note…
    By only doing 3 to 4 coats, the finish is IN the wood, not ON it. Sprayed nitro finishes, polyurethane and other sprayed finishes sit on the wood, not in it.
    The thin finish leaves the wood very organic feeling, which I love btw… On open grain woods like mahogany, oak, or ash this will not fill the pores. This is why good sanding is especially important. Any imperfections will be visible, and you’ll feel them too.

    If you want that super smooth feel like maple, but are using an open grained wood, well, that is well beyond the scope of this article. But it is possible. There are plenty of Keep it Simple tutorials out there that can get you there. Just be aware, you’ll be putting on more coats, which won’t feel as organic.

    Lastly, not to belabor a point, disposing of your rags properly is so very important. I hang mine on a clothes line till they don’t smell. Then I throw them out.

    Reply
  5. Hi, great series of articles. I make 6-string guitars but there is obviously much overlap. I sand necks to 800 with blocks etc as you show, but then spend time with 1000 then 2000 grit on the back of the neck, and finish off with 0000 wire wool. I don’t worry about looking at it, just work away at it while watching TV. The smoothness of finish on raw wood is something wonderful. I finish with nitro (there are loads of articles about doing this so it looks good), then go back to using the wire wool on the back of the neck, and the edges including the fret ends. Not too hard, But I end out with a lovely soft feeling smooth neck like it’s been played for years. I think this would work over oil too. For me it’s how the neck feels above how it looks. (not that they look bad…)

    Reply

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