This is a continuation from part 1.
Below: At this point, the B string (the 5 string) is 3mm wide, the E string (the 4 string) is 2.5mm wide and the A string (the 3 string) is 2mm wide, with each string having a 7mm distance from each other. The remaining 2 lines seen for the D (2 string) and the G (1 string) is that the D’s line is a bass side and the G’s line is a treble side.
Below: Widths drawn and established for the D (2 string) and the G (1 string). The D is about 2mm wide and the G is about 1mm wide.
Below: The 10″ radius gauge has been used to mark an approximation of where the top of the nut will be trimmed to.
Below: The nut at this point as seen in the slot before cutting.
Below: A Fender neck design will slightly flare out at the nut, and this needs to be accomodated for with the nut cut so no malformed edges are seen. A line is drawn that follows this slight flare to avoid a malformed edge.
Below: The other side is being marked for the slightly flared shape.
Below: The square has been used to mark the line up the nut on both sides. The layout lines have been marked for where the end of the nut is.
Below: The sides of the nut have been ground down, and nut is placed in the slot for a test fit.
Below: Nut after being shaved down at a 5 degree angle (this refers to a front-to-back shaping and not side-to-side). It is not required to shave this shape into the nut, but Fender “tradition” does typically have this shape to it.
Below: The end result of the nut after all lines drawn, sides shaved and top shaved for 5 degree angle.
Where are the rest of the build steps?
You can view them all here.
Very helpful thanks.
Interesting technique with the entire string circumference on the layout. I typically use just tge center line. Also, I really dig the broad rays of the quarter sawn workbench you’ve got. Sweet!